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The modification in Tanasit's own words :
The collar with the 2 pins that required some
modifications in order to fit on to either the stock plastic guide or the
aluminum guide:
1. Open up the gap by filing the material off the
opening.
2. File flat the outside surface of both pins. you
can see this from the first picture.
3. Enlarge the guide's holes outward.
4. Remove some material from the inner wall of the
collar so that it can be clamped closer onto the metal head.
You may be able to do only the first 3 steps but if you do all four, you
will get a better clearance. Note, if you overdo this the pins will have
too much play within the holes, therefore you may want to grease the
pins to prevent "metal to metal" contact that will cause radio
interference.
So is it worth doing this upgrade, well Tanasit has these thoughts on the
subject :
Whether it's worth doing so? It depends on how handy
you are when working with small objects that require precision handling. For
me, I had blades tracking problem that I couldn't live with so I had to find the
way to fix it and this seems to be a resolution because after I logged more than
10 flights, the tracking is still on spot. Since I am using the CF blades which
is about 20 grams, the head stiffness that I set works just fine. Forward
flight has no pitch up/down tendency and my trex grooves very well. Hovering is
somewhat sensitive thus requires a very gentle input or the machine will look
jumpy. The cyclic controls are powerful at the head speed I run, so mild 3D can
be accomplishe just by 80% of the available throw on both aieleron and
elevation. Other flyers may want to try the new Align head with 4 o-rings and
see if they are happy with that setup. As for the binding of the mixers' arms
with the hub mounting screws' head, I replaced the stock mixer arms with the
Flight Tech CNC ones that come in 6 colors
These arms are very thin and will easily clear the hub screw, but there
was a slight problem with fitting: the inner ring of the included bearings is lower than the outer ring,
so when the arm is screwed down tight, the outer ring with touch the hub and get
stuck! To fix that, I had to cut the stock brass sleeve in half and use them as
the washer so that the inner ring will come in contact with the
hub.
My thanks to Tanasit for the pictures and words.
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